During the holidays, I finished a somewhat large clay project for a very pleasant customer. She wanted several sterling silver necklaces featuring "songs" from the
Legend of Zelda: Ocarina of Time. As a Zelda fan myself, how could I say no and turn away a fellow Zelda fan.
Hundreds of little directional and "A" button beads and a dozen miniature ocarina charms later, I was thinking that I never wanted to see a damned ocarina ever again. Though recently I also finished beating
Legend of Zelda: Link Between Worlds and man. That franchise will never get old.
I posted a photo of one of the final necklaces on
DA and since then I've had a few more interested customers, so I guess I won't be seeing the last of those cursed little directional and "A" beads.
To change things up a bit here though, today's post is a quick and dirty DIY tutorial on how I make my ocarina beads out of
polymer clay. If you are new and unfamiliar to polymer clay, I strongly suggest you do some googling to understand the medium! It's very interesting and there are so many wonderful artists doing so many creative things with it.
One of the most fundamental rules (or I guess it's more of a guideline?) that I tell people working with polymer clay is this: the less you mess with it, the cleaner the result. Too much fiddling with your fingers or tools can sometimes result in a lot of unnecessary textures and marks on your clay piece. Not to mention, it'll probably warp the shape so much that you'll want to start over. FORTUNATELY though, polymer clay virtually never hardens (though it will stiffen and dry out a bit if it's really old) so you have all the time in the world to make something over and over. :P
First, start with a ball. Everything starts with a ball.
(Well, that second piece was also a ball, but I forgot to take the picture beforehand. Apologies for any confusion this may have caused.)
If you're wondering what the pieces are: the large ball will become the main body of the ocarina. The smaller cone-shaped piece is going to be the handle.
Now pay attenshon: roll the ball gently in the center of the palm of your hand - this will achieve the smoothest and most uniform ball. If you apply too much force, you'll notice that the ball will become angular, kinda like a cube or rhombus or whatever you call it, and you don't want that. To roll that second piece, first roll a ball, then put it down on a clean, flat surface. I use a long piece of
clear plexiglass as my clay work surface. Now take a smaller,
smooth plexiglass piece, hold it at an angle over one side of the ball, and roll it back and forth gently against your surface. You'll notice that it will start turning into a cone shape. You'll get it, just keep practicing. Once you've done that, pinch the other end of the cone to have a sharper point.
If you're asking why I do this with tools and not simply roll the cone with my hands, the answer is simple - I want a super-smooth, uniform surface for this piece. I'm sure you CAN do this with your hands, but you know... work smarter, not harder! :P
Return to the larger ball you rolled before, and return that back into the gentle embrace of your palms. While keeping one hand still and laying flat so your palm is facing upwards, use the palm of your other hand to apply gentle pressure against one side of the ball in order to start turning it into a teardrop shape.
Once you have the two pieces, at this point you may want to take a step by and review the proportions of the pieces against eachother. For example, you don't want the handle to be huge compared to the body, or have the body be too big compared to the handle. Depending on which piece offends you more, add/subtract clay from that piece accordingly and make it again.
If your main body piece is satisfactory, take a pencil (or similar tool with a point) and make a small indentation on the main body piece - this is where you're going to stick the handle. Look at some ocarina references online to get an idea of where it should be - don't just poke a hole anywhere and stick it in, you may regret it later (that's what she said.)
Now, depending on the shape of the hole and the shape of the point you made on the handle piece, you may have to do some additional adjusting. I do this with
tools - I take a
wooden curved blade tool and gently blend in the edges of the handle piece into the main body piece. Remember - less is more. Try to mess with the clay as little as possible. You don't have to make this super neat though, because this portion of the charm will be covered in a minute here.
Now that that's done, put the ocarina aside, and bust out some silver clay. The next step is to make the silver ring that goes around the top rim of the handle that is adjacent to the body. Roll the clay into a long rod-shape with your hands, and then roll it flat like cookie dough with a
thin acrylic roller (or any smooth roller or roller-shaped object you have.) You want to roll this piece out as thin and as uniformly as possible - if it's too thick it will look off-proportion with the other piece. Once you've completed rolling, use a
razor blade to cut it into a clean, uniform strip. Slide the blade carefully between the bottom of the clay strip and your work surface to separate the strip if it's stuck - don't try to pull it off with your hands or else you'll warp the shape.
Now, return to the ocarina - and this point, I suggest that you pierce the piece with a large needle (I'm using
bead piercing needles) in wherever you intend for it to be pierced, and keep it on the needle. This way, you can now hold the needle while continuing your work and won't have to worry about warping the shape of the ocarina with fingers.
With the same wooden curved blade tool I mentioned above, gently lift the silver clay strip and carefully wrap it around the top base of the handle. Chances are, your strip is going to be too long, which is good - if it's too short you'll have to start over and make a new strip. The simplest way to do this step is to first align one edge of the strip in the center of the handle (like where the trigger of a gun would be.) Wrap the rest of the strip around 360 degrees until it overlaps, and then use a blade to cut off the extra.
Using the same wooden tool, gently blend the two edges of the strip into eachother until it's no longer visible.
And yay, no fingerprints! Thank you, bead needle!
Next - the TRIFORCE!!! Take out some gold clay. If you don't have gold clay, yellow will work too, but if it's a bright neon lemon yellow you may want to consider maybe toning it down a bit with some orange or red to give it a more golden hue.
Roll a rod of gold clay in your hands and roll it flat like you did with the silver piece. I generally try to achieve the same level of thinness with both of these parts. If they're too fat you'll have a hard time sticking them on, and they may look a little off in terms of proportion.
Once you have a thin bar cut out, use an x-acto blade to cut tiny triangles out by cutting at a 45-degree angle. Cut out 3 triangles (or if you like, cut out a few more and pick the 3 that look the most uniform together.)
Pick up your x-acto blade (or whatever other precision tool of your preference) and carefully pick up each triangle piece by one of the edges, and place it onto the front of the silver ring on the ocarina. Notice here that the width of the gold strip is about 2/3 of the silver strip. Usually I aim for about 50%. The reason why you want the triangles to be shorter than the silver strip is because if they are the same width, that third triangle on the bottom of the triforce would not sit on the silver strip, and it would be at a different level than the rest. You want all 3 triangles to be on the same plane. Once you've aligned all of the triangles, gently flatten them further using the flat edge of your x-acto knife.
Now it's time to add the holes to body. I have some clay tools that have rounded ends of various sizes, but you can use whatever you find - the dull end of a pencil, etc. While referencing a picture of the ocarina, carefully aim and gently make uniform round dents into the front surface of the ocarina. Aren't you glad it's still on the bead needle? That's exactly what I'm sayin'.
Now, this next step is technically unnecessary, but since I was making pieces for jewelry, I thought it would sophisticate things a little if the ocarina beads looked more like metal. I turned to my fine collection of glittery
mica powders for the final touch: pearl/white for the silver strip, blue metallic mica powder for the ocarina body and handle, and gold metallic mica powder for the Triforce.
Of course, you can simply use the pearlescent mica powder for the whole thing if you don't have the other two. I just like to mix it up :)
Using a clean DRY brush (if it's wet you'll just make a huge soggy mess!) start first with the gold, silver, and then the blue powders. You're going to have to aim a little bit here or else you'll get the wrong color powder on the wrong areas (but to be honest it doesn't really look that bad, so don't worry too much about it.) Or if you're just using one powder, you can be a lot messier and just brush the whole thing over with a bigger brush.
Once that's done, carefully, using clean DRY fingers, hold the ocarina charm and use your other hand to pull out the bead needle by ROTATING it like a screw rather than just yanking it out. This will put less pressure on the clay piece and prevent any unnecessary warping.
Bake, glaze, and assemble. Voila! Geeky yet classy jewelry.
And of course... if you'd like to not bother making one yourself and want me to make one for you,
drop me a line and I'll see what I can do!